Who harvests gebana oranges?
We ship hundreds of thousands of kilos of hand-picked oranges from Greece every year. Developing a system that ensures fair working conditions for harvest workers is challenging.
People who harvest fruit or vegetables for a living have little to laugh about. No matter where they are in the world, those who carry out this work are often subject to unfathomable, inhumane conditions. This is because agriculture is the Wild West of the food industry. Only the strong survive.
Time and again, reports in the media highlight the issues stemming from this lawlessness. In 2022, Infosperber reported on the "schockierende Arbeitsbedingungen in Schweizer Bauernbetrieben" ("shocking working conditions on Swiss farms"). In February 2023, Süddeutsche Zeitung reported on the terrible working conditions of Eastern European workers on German farms with the headline "Zahnschmerzen, Lohndumping und Kakerlaken" ("Toothaches, wage dumping and cockroaches").
In June 2024, SRF (Swiss Radio and Television) aired the report "Bittere Früchte – Ausbeutung auf Europas Feldern" ("Bitter Fruit – Exploitation in Europe's Fields"), a short version of the documentary "The Pickers", which exposes modern slavery in the heart of Europe. It's worth watching, though difficult. The reason behind all this suffering? Fruits and vegetables have to be as cheap as possible.
So what happens when gebana oranges are harvested? The situation in Greece is anything but simple.
Farm work regulated in Greece
We've been importing oranges from Greece since 2013 – nearly 26'000 kilos in the first year. " "At the time, we only needed to deliver oranges to gebana during specific weeks," says Raphael Sacher, Chairman of the Board of Directors of our partner Anyfion. "The harvest was not strictly organised."
Since our focus in the beginning was on quality and logistics, neither we nor Anyfion had any direct influence on the harvest or the working conditions of the harvest workers. The family farmers did what all farmers did in Greece, which was to hire day labourers without asking too many questions.
This changed when Greece introduced a coupon-based payment system for farm workers and casual labourers in 2017. The aim of this system, called Ergosimo (Εργόσημο), is to establish basic regulations for employment in the agricultural sector, simplify payments, protect workers and prevent undeclared work.
Here's a simple explanation of how it works: The farmer buys the coupons from the post office or his or her bank (online or at a branch) and fills out the workers' names and national insurance numbers. The coupons are handed out to the workers once the work is completed. The workers then take the coupon to the post office or bank and receive their wages minus social security contributions (10 per cent). This can also be done online.
Even the best system can be bypassed
Although the system was set up with good intentions, it has been and continues to be abused. For one thing, it only works for workers with national insurance numbers. Undocumented migrants working illegally don't have any. They get around this by having one person with a national insurance number use a coupon to collect the money for an entire group of harvest workers. It is unclear how the money acquired in this way is distributed.
Given this lack of transparency, Anyfion launched an initial trial with its own group of harvest workers in 2019. Instead of relying on family farmers to recruit farm workers, Anyfion's group was sent from one farm to the next for the harvest. An external group leader managed and coordinated the group, and the workers continued to be paid by the family farmers who employed them. However, day labourers continued to be hired alongside this group, depending on the harvest situation.
The work is too hard for local workers
A year later, Anyfion went a step further by hiring a harvesting group. Anyfion still paid these workers by the day but took charge of the coordination. The aim of this approach was to assume more control, but it was suspended after two weeks.
"Our biggest challenge was recruitment, given that the number of migrant workers coming to Greece has declined," says Raphael Sacher. "We tried using locals, but they weren't up to the physically demanding work and couldn't perform at the required level."
The core issue is that the wages in Greek agriculture are lower than in other countries, such as Germany or Italy, making it unattractive to European labourers. This is partly due to the fact that Greece mainly exports to the Balkan countries.
As a result, they went back to relying on groups coordinated by external group leaders.
In 2020, we decided that one of our priorities for Greece was to work with Anyfion on creating better conditions for harvest workers. Since then, conditions have been steadily improving each year: better contracts, more permanent jobs instead of day labourers and improved oversight of the housing situation, food provision, possible exploitation and illegal practices.
Refugees are working in the orange groves
Anyfion has made a leap forward in this regard in the 2024/2025 season. To solve the ever-worsening problem of labour shortages, the local team worked with the NGO Metadrasi and the company Workland to legally employ undocumented migrants. Metadrasi handled recruitment in the refugee camps, while Workland took over the administrative formalities.
Thanks to the support of the two organisations, Anyfion was able to employ six men from Syria for the 2024/25 season.

The recruitment process took about a month and a half. The biggest hurdles were obtaining valid papers and bank accounts for the refugees. But in the end, everything worked out. Their employment conditions are as follows:
• Seasonal contract with 6-day week and fixed working hours
• Fixed monthly wage including social security and health insurance
• Free work clothes
• Free accommodation in a house newly renovated by Anyfion
• Free internet access in the house
• Bicycle for excursions or shopping
• Free Greek lessons if requested
These conditions may seem obvious, but they are revolutionary for Greece and Europe, especially the fixed seasonal contract and fixed salary. "No other company in the industry offers that," Sacher points out.
In the 2024/2025 season, the six men harvested almost 10 per cent of the approximately 1.5 million kilos of oranges that we now ship each year. Around 63 per cent of the fruit was harvested by groups coordinated by Anyfion, who are not permanently employed but are paid daily via coupons directly by the farming families. The remaining 27 per cent came mainly from a very large farm that has its own harvesting group and from a few very small producers who also take care of the harvest themselves.
Greece has recently made changes to its tax system that are likely to exacerbate the problem surrounding the working conditions of agricultural workers: from 2025, agricultural workers will have to pay tax on their income.
Anyone who wants to redeem coupons at the bank now needs a bank account. This is not necessary at the post office yet. However, as more and more post offices are closing in Greece, the remaining branches are extremely busy. The system is reaching its limits. Anyfion therefore expects a revival of direct cash payments and, as a result, an increase in undeclared work.
More refugees and more seasonal contracts in the 2025/2026 season
At the end of last season, Anyfion offered the six men the opportunity to stay permanently and work for the company's agricultural services department outside the harvest season. This department offers farming families various services such as tree and field maintenance. Two of the six men accepted the offer and have been working at Anyfion ever since.
The two now speak passable Greek – thanks to the voluntary commitment of two of the farmers who supply us with oranges – and will train six to seven more refugee workers in the 2025/2026 season. In addition, Anyfion has been able to find some local agricultural workers in the region who are interested in a seasonal contract with a fixed wage. Anyfion plans to have a total of twelve of its own harvest workers for the season. Of course, even these twelve will not be able to bring in the entire harvest, and Anyfion
Sources:
Zahnschmerzen, Lohndumping und Kakerlaken ("Toothaches, wage dumping and cockroaches"), Süddeutsche Zeitung (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Bittere Früchte – Ausbeutung auf Europas Feldern ("Bitter Fruit – Exploitation in Europe's Fields"), SRF (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Schockierende Arbeitsbedingungen in Schweizer Bauernbetrieben ("shocking working conditions on Swiss farms"), Infosperber (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Erntehelfer gesucht: Melonis Italien praktiziert eine zweischneidige Einwanderungspolitik ("Harvest workers wanted: Italy's immigration policy is a double-edged sword"), NZZ (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Nur Gutes aus der Region? Die Krux mit den Lebensmitteln von nebenan ("Only good things from the region? The dilemma of locally sourced food"), Geschichte der Gegenwart (accessed on 6.1.2025)
Bittere Bedingungen für Erntehelfer ("Harsh conditions for harvest workers"), Bauernzeitung (accessed on 6.1.2025)